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Motorcycle / StuntBike Setup
Clutch
Using a MSR Raptor Easy Pull Clutch Lever makes a world of difference. This lever and perch changes the leverage that it takes to pull your clutch in by 1/3 the original force. Cutting off the tear drop end is common, allows you to slide your finger from clutch to handbrake.
Supporting your Radiator
Tomahawking your stuntbike can cause all kinds of problems one number one problem is ripping the tabs off your Radiator, Using large Zip Ties from A.C. Supply stores is usually a good and easy fix. Some companies have started making steel radiator cages that replace the flimsy aluminum tabs with steel ones including a cage.
Lights
If you still have a headlight on your bike and plan to ride it on the street, just remove the plug from your low beam and swap it with your high beam light but don't reconnect your low beam. Your switch will now just run your low beam and you can flip it on and off when you are riding. You will probably have to relocated this light switch to another part of your bike, usually in the upper fairing somewhere because with a handbrake and a clutch on the same clip on there is no longer enough room.
Engine kill switch
Some people like put some kind of pin through the engine kill switch to keep you from hitting it off when you are doing a trick where you have your legs over the windshield in a highchair position. If you hit it on accident with your legs, you are going to kill the engine in the middle of a wheelie, and its going to hurt very bad. On the flip side no one will know how to turn your bike off if you crash and the bike gets away from you, especially if you relocate your key.
Kick Stand Switch
Disable your kickstand switch so it always thinks its up, once again if you come down off a wheelie to hard and that kickstand moves just enough it'll kill your bike and send you flying. This also will allow some bikes to start while in gear instead of neutral which is a nice convenience.
Tip Over Sensor
Disable the tip sensor, usually by either connecting the two outside with a butt connector and leaving he center one capped off, or by disassembling the unit and filling it with silicone to keep it in the center. Each bike is different and I would check around on the internet for exactly how to do it.
Relocating your Key
If you don't move your key to somewhere else, most of the time under the driver seat in between the two sub frame rails is a good place, you are going to break it off in the ignition or hit it and turn off the bike.
You're Ugly
Sucks to be you, hopefully you make a lot of money
Fan Switch
In the lot your bike is going to get extremely hot, especially F4i's, running a switch that will kick the fan on before the temp sensor tells it to automatically come on is a really good idea. Usually done by finding the relay that turns the fan on and putting a switch between a new ground and the ground wire of the relay. This lets the temp sensor work but allows you to over ride it and just turn the fan on before it reaches around 220 degrees.
-Don't wire it in directly unless you have a fuse and a relay in line.
-Some people wire it directly into the ignition but if you ever kill your battery and have to push start it, you will have a harder time bumping it off with that constant power draw.
Gauges
Run your gauges so you can tell if your fuel light it on, running out of gas in a wheelie is a bad idea. Some people use the tach a lot when learning to wheelie
Idle Screw
Taking the stock idle screw and moving it to a easier place to access, commonly in between the frame and the gas tank towards the front is the best place. Often you have to leave the factory one and run a second one, a simple search can find you the answer.
Clip On's / DirtBike Bars / ConvertaBars
Clip-On's is the most common setup, it is cheaper and easier to replace the tube then a full clip on. Although some people take 636 clip On's, grind the location tabs off and flip them from RH side to left hand side, making the tubes point upwards instead of down like normal. Another clip on setup is a 0 degree setup, where there is no angle but the bars setup wider giving you more control.
Dirtbike Bars often put on by just drilling factory top clamps and mounting dirtbike bars clamps, extending brake lines and clutch cable is typically a must. Some times rerouting them is enough. This setup doesn't allow you enough room to mount a steering stabilizer like Scotts or GPR making it less desirable along with very difficult to run an upper fairing.
Convertabars are a product that is a mix between both clip on's and dirtbike bars. They clamp around the fork tubes but have a special designed clip on tube that gives you any desired raise. This keeps you from drilling holes in the triple clamp and weakening it, allows your to running a steering stabilizer and gives you a little more adjustment then dirt bars.
Here is a list of companies that make dirt bars and clip on's
-Vortex
-WoodCraft
-Naarden
-Tag
-Renthal
-RSD
-LSL
-Gilles
-FreeStyle Ingenuity
-Full Throttle Inc
Damper
You are a dummy if you don't run one and one tank slapper you will realize how fast you need to buy one. The major differences are price and style (either rod or rotary).
Comparison of Scotts and GPR
Here is a list of companies that make and sell dampers
-Scotts
-GPR
-Ohlins
-PitBull
-PSR
-HyperPro
Cutting the Upper/ Street Fighter
Running Street Fighter is usually a good idea in the beginning if you plan on dropping the bike alot, as you get better its up to you to run it. With out it you can see better, move around the bike better, less weight and for the most part cools better. With it on you can use it to hold your feet and ass when you do a high chair stoppie, more available room for sponsor stickers, and if you are riding for a factory they want you to run as close to stock as you can.
List of aftermarket headlight companies
-Acerbis
Exhaust
Keep in mind stunt riding is usually done at night and in secret like some lame fight club, so if you don't want to get kicked out of a spot being out of sight out of mind is the best choice. Commonly people take factory pipes and cut a few inches out of the end so it doesn't hit the ground. On some bikes scrapping the exhaust its pretty much the only thing you can do for a 12 bar like most Kawasaki's and 600RR's, this usually keeps you from wrecking your subframe on these two types of bikes.
Here is a list of companies that make Exhaust
-Two Brothers
-Jardine
-M4
-FMF
-Yoshimura
-Akropovic
-Ti-Force
-Hindle
-Scorpion
-Graves
-Arrow
-LeoVince
-Tsukigi
-HMF
-Vance&Hines
-GYTR
-Micron(no longer makes motorcycle pipes but they are still around)
-D&D (the loudest pipe that will get you kicked out of a spot)
-Muzzy
-Brock
Rearsets
Replacement factory rearsets are usually the cheapest to buy but are not easily bought when you need them. The aftermarket ones produced are a lot stronger and allow for replacement parts to be bought individually most times. After Market rearsets also come in a fully adjustable type giving you the capability to move the pegs sometimes up to 1.5" different from stock. Most aftermarket rearsets give you a solid peg, sometimes useful in protecting the bike.
-Vortex
-WoodCraft
-Gilles Tooling
-ESD
-Hohey
-Sato
-knock off crap on Ebay
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